Proper Zamami Post

Satellite image of Zamami courtesy of Google Maps Zamami Island, where I've been staying with Dave Sensei the last week, is a special place. I felt that my previous Zamami post didn't really do it justice, so I've worked up a proper one so you can hopefully share in some of its specialness. Zamami, part of the Kerama archipelago, is some 40km* from Okinawa, although it feels much farther*. Its 6.5 square miles of area are basically covered by 15 or so miles of paved roads, which can easily be explored by bicycle* in one day. Of the 600 inhabitants of the island, 500 live in the main village, a perfectly sized city, at least for some good down time. (Here's a shot of Dave walking to school on Main Street*.) Big enough for a few restaurants but small enough that you start to recognize the same people around town, it has served as a great counterpoint to Taipei and some of the other cities of Taiwan for me. Despite the small size of things, there is plenty to explore. (With exploration, of course, comes geocaching.) Around the island on tops of various bluffs and hills, there are 5 observatories for checking out the views and trying to spot whales. Beaches and snorkeling are popular (when it isn't raining, of course) which I hope to get some time in for later this week. But my favorite activity so far is just soaking in the wonderful small town vibe. Having an in with the community to introduce me around and get us invitiations to community-type events has only helped that vibe. People have been asking me, "How's Japan?" I'm somewhat unable to respond. I know practically nothing of cultural/societal Japan is represented here on this island. But time for Japan culture and society will come soon enough. For now, I'm enjoying Zamami.

Monday March 9 2009

File under: travel, Japan

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on Mon 09th Mar, 2009 08:55 pm PDT Mom said: Any of those 6-ft long I-G-B-Y-A-W-Y-C-A-S-Y snakes there? ************************ on Tue 10th Mar, 2009 08:00 pm PDT Joe said: was that an ipod in that geocache??that place looks awesome, looks like it has a great vibe, beautiful. ************************ on Wed 11th Mar, 2009 01:49 am PDT Juline said: Geocaching! Have you been doing it throughout the trip? What kind of items are in a Japanese geocache? ************************ on Thu 12th Mar, 2009 06:39 am PDT Dave's Dad said: Wren i am glad you are keeping us informed of your stay on Zamami as it seems your host doesn't seem to have time! Have a great time. ************************

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Quote For Monday - Traveler Edition

A friend sent me this quote today and I've been thinking about it all day. Unrelatedly, another friend asked what happened to my Monday quote series. Talk about kismet. "Your true traveler finds boredom rather agreeable than painful. It is the symbol of his liberty—his excessive freedom. He accepts his boredom, when it comes, not merely philosophically, but almost with pleasure.� - Aldous Huxley

Monday March 9 2009

File under: travel, quote

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on Mon 09th Mar, 2009 07:25 pm PDT Juline said: I was thinking along those lines when you posted about your inactivity the other day. Hope you bring back the weekly quote feature. ************************

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Rainy Days on Zamami

Rain, rain, go away. Come again another day. That's pretty much been my sentiment since arriving here on Zamami. My usual routine of roaming aimlessly around looking for neat stuff and taking silly pictures has been greatly curtailed. I got one good roam session in in the 4 days I've been here. Said roam session was great as I saw beaches, tiny villages, and more, but my legs are getting restless. Luckily there have been indoor activities to keep me not only entertained, but getting a backdoor look at the Japanese (or at least Zamamian) culture. I got to watch Dave's Taiko drumming class practice where presentation was focused on just as much as the music being produced. We also went to his boss's house last night to watch Japan play Korea in the World Baseball Championship*. A night of being in a place where I was the only one that didn't speak Japanese* is a definite cultural experience. And in a brief window of no rain, Dave and I headed out to meet up with his grade schoolers from Geruma while they were on a field trip. It basically turned into babysitting duty/play time. As per usual, my juggling and stupid human tricks made an appearance with positive results. While nights sitting around a room not knowing what's going on or spending a couple hours having pillow fights with kids isn't my normal independent travel routine, it is my experience on Zamami so far and you aren't going to hear me complain.

Saturday March 7 2009

File under: travel, Japan

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I Undress Myself

I'm working up a post about Zamami, the island I'm currently staying on, but don't want to rush it. (There hasn't been much good light for taking pictures recently*.) Anyway, in the meantime, enjoy this sign I ran across on the ferry out here from Okinawa. I sure did.

Friday March 6 2009

File under: travel, Japan

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on Fri 06th Mar, 2009 09:49 am PST Mom said: Is this a promotion for schizophrenia or self censorship? ************************ on Fri 06th Mar, 2009 11:34 am PST Saxtor said: That reminds me of the Divinyls song. ************************ on Fri 06th Mar, 2009 11:25 pm PST Joe said: is that a common enough occurrence to warrant a sign? ************************

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Price Comparisons

I know money seems like a lame thing to be thinking/blogging about when traveling in such incredible places as Taiwan and Japan, but it is a hard issue to avoid putting some thought into. In fact, it can sometimes lend a really interesting light to cultural appreciation. Having just arrived in Japan and conversion rates, etc. already being on my mind, I thought I would post a few price comparisons. Taipei, Taiwan Okinawa, Japan notes Lowest denomination of paper currency NT 100 (about $3.00) 1000 yen (about $10.00) In either case, but esp. Japan, a pocket full of change can add up to a lot of money McDonald's ice cream cone NT 15 (about $0.45) 100 yen (about $1.00) This more than 100% increase in price is not going to bode well for that habit. It is worth noting, however, that Japanese McDs ice cream cones are pointed at the bottom. Now you know. 15(ish) minute subway/monorail ride NT 25 (about $0.70) 230 yen (about $2.40) Taiwan has the clear advantage here. I was super impressed by Taipei's clean, efficient, awesome subway. Naha, however, has a monorail, and monorails are just plain cool. Pocari sweat NT 25 (about $0.70) 110 yen (about $1.15) In Japan, however, you can get Pocari sweat from a vending machine, one of which is located every 3 feet along every road. Bed in a hostel NT 590 (about $17.50) 1500 yen (about $15.50) Surprisingly Taipei outprices Japan, but I have a feeling while $17.50 was the most I paid for a bed in Taiwan, $15.50 will be the least I have to pay in all of Japan. Postage for a postcard to the U.S. NT 11 (about $0.30) 70 yen (about $.075) The question is if and when they will arrive.

Wednesday March 4 2009

File under: travel, Taiwan

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on Wed 04th Mar, 2009 07:42 pm PST Jule said: travel memories: priceless ************************

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Not a City Guy Me

I've never been much of a big city guy. That goes for travel as well as living (although they are certain perks to cities for both). Anyway, arriving in Chaiyi at 3:30 Saturday afternoon, I decided I couldn't spend another night in a city. Unfortunately, the last train to Alishan (my next hopeful destination) had already left. And if I correctly interpreted the group gesturing and chatter at the bus station, the bus was also not an option. What now? Be bold and mighty forces will come to your aid. I rented a scooter*. With only a highway number and a destination city name*, I braved the rush hour traffic and struck out. For a while it was iffy, but as the traffic petered out and the switchbacks took me into the clouds, I knew I made the right decision. I subsequently spent 2 nights in the tiny mountain town of Fencihu. I passed the days scooting along gorgeous, albeit hardly DOT approved, mountain roads and hiking* among mind-blowingly beautiful tiered tea plantations, cliffs, bamboo forests, waterfalls, sunrises, and six-foot-long-I'm-gonna-bite-you-and-watch-you-convulse-and-soil-yourself snakes*. Yes, getting out of the city was the right call. If I wasn't flying to Japan tomorrow, I would still be up in that cool mountain air without a horn honk or siren heard the whole night long.

Sunday March 1 2009

File under: travel, Taiwan

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on Mon 02nd Mar, 2009 06:04 am PST Hope said: Is that the infamous black mamba? Bet it got you dancing! ************************ on Mon 02nd Mar, 2009 01:58 pm PST Joe said: exciting stuff! ************************ on Tue 03rd Mar, 2009 01:25 pm PST Debbie said: Hi, Wren, enjoyed the vicarious travel. Sounds like a great trip. ************************

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Taiwanese Food Post

Everybody likes posts about food, right? I'm afraid I don't have too much to share. When traveling where I don't speak the language, I have a severely restricted food routine. Wherever I eat must either a) have an english menu (very rare) b) have a picture menu or c) have the food right there to point at. You'd be surprised at how many places that filters out. Besides chicken butt at the wedding, freshly caught and grilled shrimp, and a group meal where a local did all the ordering, I've mostly been eating street food and dumplings*. Don't get me wrong; the food I do find is good, but just not super expansive. This lack of food experience made it all the better when tonight I found myself sharing some local cuisine with Chen Li, a kind local soul who has taken me under his wing to make sure I find my way in this city* where there are very few foreigners and very little English spoken. In his quest to get me to really experience Taiwan, he chose ginger duck hot pot as a representative dish. It was good, esp. with him explaining what everything was and how it was supposed to be eaten. Afterwards, I insisted I share a little bit of Wren culture with him and we sought out some ice cream. He opted for juice instead. Yes, food is a big part of traveling. Finding a local to help guide you through what can often be a maze of options and decision almost guarantees it to be great. With all aspects of my life, I realize the good fortune I encounter and am grateful for it.

Friday February 27 2009

File under: travel, Taiwan

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on Fri 27th Feb, 2009 08:48 pm PST steve said: Gee,I seem to have seen the clothes you are wearing some time in the not too distant past!!! ************************ on Sun 01st Mar, 2009 06:57 pm PST Saxtor said: Wow, I hadn't noticed it until Steve made me go back and look....but what's with the collared shirts? I've always taken you for more of a t-shirt* kinda guy. ************************ on Sun 01st Mar, 2009 09:09 pm PST Jule said: Wren got his wardrobe back in '96, that shirt used to be fluorescent. But it looks like collars are what to wear in Taiwan. I am sure Chen Li loves to practice English and you get to eat. win-win. ************************ on Mon 02nd Mar, 2009 05:28 am PST Wren said: Just so ya'll know, I wear the collared shirts because they are thinner ergo cooler in these warm climates. But just so you know, the majority of them are hand-me-downs. ************************ on Mon 02nd Mar, 2009 09:27 pm PST Mom said: All this talk of food, all these great pictures, and not one crossword puzzle anywhere. What's up with that? ************************ on Wed 04th Mar, 2009 08:06 am PST rus said: Hon.SonNo.2. I´m following you with avidity. ************************ on Wed 04th Mar, 2009 11:29 am PST Juline said: Tsk, tsk, you are prepared for everything but how to order local food! Do you know how to ask for "your most popular item"? You're getting a lot of grief about your wardrobe. What's up with that? ************************

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Taroko Gorge

I don't know quite how to say it without sounding overly hyperbolic, but Taroko Gorge is pretty much the coolest thing I've ever seen. There's no way that my pictures will do any sort of justice, so you'll just have to take my word for it*. I rented a scooter* in Hualien (where I've been staying the last couple days) and scooted the 20 or so miles out to the entrance of Taroko National Park. (Being back on a scooter in the land of scooters was quite a feeling, but I'll have to address that another time.) Right from the park entrance, I knew it was going to be a good day. The road twisted and turned through tunnels and over bridges. Every other km there was a pull out for some new spectacular view. In addition to a great drive on an amazing road, I got in a nice little* hike. Again with the tunnels and bridges, but this time only for hikers. It is amazing how much effort obviously went into creating and maintaining these trails. If I could do it again, I would plan on staying (maybe camping) up the gorge to have more time to explore and simply marvel at it all. But so it goes... I really shouldn't complain.

Wednesday February 25 2009

File under: travel, Taiwan

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on Wed 25th Feb, 2009 03:11 pm PST Saxtor said: Woah, that place looks awesome! ************************ on Wed 25th Feb, 2009 04:13 pm PST Juline said: I love the convex mirror shot. The place looks deserted. And beautiful. ************************ on Wed 25th Feb, 2009 08:35 pm PST Andrew said: It does indeed, rule. Great place! Glad you made it! ************************ on Wed 25th Feb, 2009 09:02 pm PST Sarah F said: wow! that's amazing. i never would have imagined there was such a place in Taiwan. ************************ on Thu 26th Feb, 2009 12:28 am PST Joe said: great pix. I especially love the action shot of you walking. you're like les stroud, survivorman, having to set up your own shots and then capture yourself in the action. awesome. u have such vision! i know you saw that ledge and thought, "i can get an action shot here!" :-) good stuff wren ************************ on Thu 26th Feb, 2009 02:50 pm PST Deneva said: Looks amazing! ...trying to remember my exact reasoning for choosing Spokane over Taiwan ;) ************************ on Mon 02nd Mar, 2009 05:29 am PST Wren said: Joe, I love the idea of me as survivor man, at least in respect to setting up the shots. Now everytime I use the timer on my camera, I think of that. Good times. ************************

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Twitter from Taipei

With the recent craze being all about uber-short updates in the third person (a la facebook status and twitter), I thought I would give said format a try. You know me: always pushing the blogging limits. (Oh, and click on the little pictures to get big pictures.) Wren could get used to dumplings for breakfast. (Sunday 8:32 am) Wren is pround of his public transportation skillz, esp. when he doesn't speak the language. (Sunday 9:49 am) Wren realizes too late that a weekend is a bad time to visit the National Palace Museum. (Sunday 10:52 am) Wren is grateful for the numerous and amazingly calming parks throughout Taipei. (Sunday 11:28 am) Wren is afraid that the discovery of a $0.12 dumpling place could lead to a nasty addiction. (Sunday 12:18 pm) Wren is a sucker for engineering marvels*. (Sunday 1:55 pm) Wren wishes he had fog/smog/haze penetrating vision (but at least isn't afraid of heights). (Sunday 2:12 pm) Wren's legs are tired from a heck of a lot of walking*. (Sunday 5:45 pm) Wren is stoked to be going shrimping! (Sunday 6:29 pm) Wren caught one. (Sunday 8:14 pm) Wren is one satisfied hosteller*. (Sunday 11:03 pm)

Monday February 23 2009

File under: travel, Taiwan

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on Mon 23rd Feb, 2009 09:03 pm PST Mom said: Wren would be well advised to hide that shrimping photo from the local salmon fishermen. Was it big enough to be a pole bender? Doubtful. ************************ on Tue 24th Feb, 2009 09:45 am PST Saxtor said: Evan found this post amusing and is glad you're having a good time in Taiwan. ************************ on Tue 24th Feb, 2009 02:26 pm PST Joe said: Joe still doesn't know wtf Twitter is. And furthermore, doesn't care to find out. ************************ on Tue 24th Feb, 2009 04:14 pm PST Dave said: that shrimp picture brings a little international flavor to the trout pond excursions kids go on for birthday trips. ************************ on Tue 24th Feb, 2009 09:37 pm PST Jule said: Awesome ************************ on Wed 25th Feb, 2009 12:12 am PST Horge said: Horge agrees with Joe on Twitter. About all he knows is that Ashton Kutcher does it, which is not exactly a ringing endorsement in George's eyes. ************************ on Wed 25th Feb, 2009 12:12 am PST Horge said: That said, Horge still enjoys this post :) ************************ on Wed 25th Feb, 2009 04:19 pm PST Juline said: Juline is also skeptical of Twitter (though admits to giving it a test run), would love to try one of those dumplings (or four or five), and believes that walking is the only way to truly experience a new locale. And she hopes that Wren is taking a lot more photos than he is posting in his blog. ************************ on Wed 04th Mar, 2009 05:58 pm PST Amiel Martin said: what is you'r twitter user name? im at @amiel ************************ on Wed 04th Mar, 2009 06:03 pm PST Wren said: This is about as close as I come to twittering (except to go to their site (for the first time) to figure out how to format this post...). ************************

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A Taiwanese Wedding

While it has been said before, I want to add my heartiest congratulations to Bob and Nicole, and wish them many many years of happiness together. They were married (Taiwanese style) last night here in Taipei and I had the honor of attending. Never been to a traditional Taiwanese wedding? It is different. Disco lights, constume changes (3 for the bride), an M.C., not a word of english (except the occasional "Bob" dropped here and there), and food that I was glad I couldn't identify. (A local woman at our table tried to convince us we were eating pig ankle and chicken butt. I believed her.)* There were replacements for the traditions I'm familiar with (throwing the boquet became this ribbon tying affair that involved all the single ladies) and then traditions that were far above my western head. And while I might not have understood it all, I was grateful to be there to witness and support Bob and Nicole in their union.

Saturday February 21 2009

File under: travel, Taiwan

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on Sat 21st Feb, 2009 05:09 pm PST Kat said: How many costume changes did you have? ************************ on Sun 22nd Feb, 2009 12:20 am PST Bob said: thanks a lot wren! it was great that you could come. hope you can make it shrimp fishing tonight! ************************ on Sun 22nd Feb, 2009 10:28 am PST amanda said: Congratulations Bobby Hance! ************************ on Tue 24th Feb, 2009 09:39 pm PST Jule said: Chicken butt is my favorite! ************************

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